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Your
waster has finally arrived.
You gaze over it lovingly, and the first thing you want to do
is go outside and start swinging it. Before you do, though, take
a little time to protect your $60-$100 investment. You take care
of it, and it will serve you faithfully.
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Treating
the Wood
The first thing to
check is to see if the wood has been finished in some way, or
if it is still just basically dry. Dry wood is a lot more brittle,
and to put up with the kind of abuse that comes from practicing
historical fencing, you will want to toughen the wood by filling
the pores with some sort of oil. This also will protect it against
moisture and mildew.
Some manufacturers
will have already treated the wood for you, but if not, we recommend
using a mixture of 50% linseed oil and 50% mineral spirits. Other
oils, waxes, resins, and mixtures exist, so don't hesitate to
check with the manufacturer or your local woodworker or cabinet
maker to see what they recommend. Basically, you just wipe the
entire waster with a brush or rag soaked in the mixture and let
it soak in. If all the mixture soaks into the wood, repeat the
process until the wood will take no more oil. It does not hurt
to let the waster soak overnight. Once this is done, you may find
that your waster will "sweat" a little of the oil; just
wipe the excess oil off with a rag or paper towel.
From time to time you
will want to retreat your waster to keep it from drying out. It
does not need to be often, just periodically wipe it down with
an oily rag.
Nicks, Splinters
and Breaks
It's called a waster
for a reason; even with the best of care, the repeated strikes,
parries, and deflections are going to take their toll. You should
take the time after each training session to inspect your waster
for damage.
Dents in the wood do
not present much of a problem, however, nicks and splinters do.
The sharp points can cause injury to your opponent, and if not
treated in time, a small splinter along the wood grain can turn
into a major break. Sand out all nicks and splinters. If a splinter
is forming a crack along the grain, you can try to glue it with
some sort of adhesive, but our attempts at this have not been
successful.
Finally, sooner or
later, the unthinkable will happen; the waster will break. If
you see a major crack forming in the wood, for the safety of yourself
and your partners, go ahead and retire the waster. That is much
better than letting it shatter during sparring and watching the
hospital staff pick the shrapnel out of your sparring partner. |